More amazing scenery from Banff to Lake Louise. We planned to stay in Lake Louise one night, and then drive along the Icefields Parkway toward Jasper and stay there for 2 nights before heading back to Calgary.
Our first stop in the Lake Louise area was Moraine Lake. This lake is nestled in the Valley of the Ten Peaks and is usually frozen until June. In fact, the access road to the lake is closed all winter, so when Greg and I were in Lake Louise last spring, we couldn't have seen it, even if we wanted to. Greg, the kids, and I hiked up a rock pile to get a beautiful view of the amazing waters. The lake is glacially fed, and when it's full, it reflects a shade of brilliant blue that is due to the refraction of the light off the rock flour deposited in the lake. I'm not sure I've ever seen water this color in real life...it was truly spectacular! And COLD! I dipped my toes in...brrrrr!
It was now mid-afternoon, and we decided to go ahead to Lake Louise (the actual lake) and the Fairmont Chateau before checking in to our hotel. The clouds in the sky and the occasional rain drop made the view no less stunning! Again, when Greg and I were in LL last spring, the mountains were covered in snow, and the lake was most definitely still frozen. It was great to experience the lake in early summer. We walked around the lake a bit, explored the Chateau a bit, and then enjoyed some ice cream in the afternoon sun. We had to dip our toes in this lake too...yep, still cold!
We checked in to Lake Louise Inn a little after 4 p.m. As we were settling in and starting to think about dinner, the power went out. Greg and Mom Z went to check it out, and the entire hotel, along with most of the town, had lost electricity. We had plans to enjoy pizza and pasta at a restaurant in the Inn, so time for a new plan since it was going to be a while before power was restored. Greg considered driving us back to Banff, but I called the Chateau to see if they had power. We were in luck, and headed back to the Chateau for dinner at Glacier Saloon. A bit pricey, but the lights were on! By the time we got back to the Inn, the lights were on (whew!), and we had some time to relax before turning them off on purpose...for bed.
Day 2 of our adventure started at Laggan's Bakery for some tasty treats, and then led us along the Icefields Parkway, the 150 mile stretch of road from Lake Louise to Jasper that parallels the Continental Divide. The parkway was named for the prominent icefield that can be seen about halfway to Jasper, the Columbia Icefields. We were expecting to walk on that glacier later in the day, but first there were moutains, lakes, and wildlife to see. We had not travelled long before coming across a handful of parked cars along the road. As we drove by, we saw why...a grizzly bear snacking on some grass! We followed the crowd and also pulled over to snap a few photos. As soon as the bear lifted it's head, Greg was ready to get out of there. :) We pulled up to the park station ahead, and the park ranger kindly, yet firmly, asked us if we saw the sign that told us not to stop for wildlife. Oops! Poor Greg...he was the one in the driver seat getting in trouble, and he was the one that didn't want to stop in the first place! Despite the reprimand, the rest of us still thought it was pretty cool that we'd seen a bear!
First stop, after the hungry bear, was Crowfoot Glacier. This glacier is situated on Crowfoot Mountain, and runoff from the glacier supplies water to the Bow River. You can see it in the picture below, just above our (Steph and Mom Z) heads. We couldn't help but laugh as a crow flew in as we were leaving. Can't make this stuff up! :)
A few kilometers down the road was Bow Lake. We could not believe how still the water was, making the reflection of the mountains in the water simply breathtaking.
Peyto Lake is another glacier fed lake in Banff National Park. It was named for Bill Peyto, an early trail guide and trapper in the Banff area. Even with misty skies, the bright turquoise color (from the rock flour particles I mentioned earlier) was shocking. Hard to believe it's real...
On the road again...amazing mountains the whole way, and we came upon Bridal Veil Falls too.
Around 11 a.m., we arrived at the Columbia Icefield Centre and Athabasca Glacier. We bought our tickets and then hopped aboard a bus that drove us about 5 minutes up the road to the specially designed Ice Explorers. Each snowcoach costs over 1 million dollars, and there are only 22 in the world. The coach can maneuver the steep grades, snow, and ice. I thought it was intestesting that the coach drives through a puddle of water to wash the wheels before driving onto the glacier. Dirt from the wheels brought on to the glacier would cause the ice to melt even faster than it already is.
Here we are...on a glacier! For some background, the Athabasca Glacier is one of the six principal "toes" of the Columbia Icefield. It is approximately 3.7 miles long, covers an area of 2.3 square miles, and is measured to be between 300-980 feet thick. The glacier is receding at a rate of about 15 feet per year and has receded more than a mile in the past 125 years and lost over half of its volume. Our guide told us that scientists believe the glacier will be completely gone in another 70 years. Sad. However, due to its close proximity to the Icefields Parkway and easy accessibility, and while it lasts, it is the most visited glacier in North America. It was cold and windy, so Nathalie wasn't too thrilled, but Ben loved it! He and I drank from the waters running in a crevasse, clean and cold! Truly, a once-in-a-lifetime experience!
We boarded the snowcoach and made our way back to the Centre. We saw this pack of mountain goats as we unloaded. They feed off the small bushes and trees that grow and like to lick the salt and minerals that are left on the rocks. Ben stood next to the original snowcoach design...a bit different than what we rode. And then the kids got up close with some "wild" animals before we piled in the van and headed off towards Jasper.
Right away, we saw the Glacier Skywalk - a walkway built out from the mountain with just a glass bottom separating you from the 1,000 feet drop below. Looks cool, but no thanks.
A beautiful photo at Tangle Creek Falls, complete with running mountain goats. Then we officially crossed over from Banff National Park into Jasper National Park.
About 35 miles from Jasper is Sunwapta Falls. Sunwapta means "turbulent water", and it really was! The water originates from the Athabasca Glacier, and the water volume is high right now from the glacial meltdown.
Now 20 miles from Jasper, and we made one last stop at the Athabasca Falls. This waterfall is not known so much for the height of the falls, as it is known for its force due to the large quantity of water falling into the gorge.
We made it!! Around 4 p.m., after waiting out a super long train to enter town, we arrived at our hotel, Mount Robson Inn. We spent a few minutes getting settled, and then drove downtown for some pizza. Yum! We walked along Main Street for a bit after dinner, and then found an ice cream shop for dessert. It felt good to lay down that night...sightseeing is exhausting! :)
Cloudy skies on day 3 of our journey, but we ventured out that morning for Maligne Lake and Canyon. As we drove, we came upon Medicine Lake. I was reading that it is really a geologic anomaly in the sense that it is not actually a lake, but rather an area in which the Maligne River backs up and suddenly becomes a lake in the summer months.
Arrived at Maligne Lake, a popular spot for fishing, canoeing, and camping. The lake takes its name from the French word for malignant or wicked, to describe the turbulent river that flows from the lake and spreads beyond to the Canyon. It didn't look wicked the day we were there, calm and beautiful. Boat tours are offered on the lake for amazing views, but we weren't sure the kids would be up for a 2 hour tour after being confined in a van for the past couple of days. So, we spent the time walking, throwing rocks, and just enjoying the views. Until it started to rain...
We stopped for a picnic lunch and exploring at Maligne Canyon. Mom Z stayed with Nathalie, who was snoozing in the van, while the rest of us headed toward the canyon. Dad Z barely made it on the bridge before retreating. The canyon measures over 160 feet deep, and I admit that I was a bit nervous at Ben peering over the side into the depth as well. Yikes! So, we were down to 3 Zabikows wandering along the pathway and appreciating the limestone, plantlife, and rushing waters.
We drove back to Jasper for a cool and damp afternoon stroll through the shops. As we walked in and out of shops, we saw lots of souvenirs from Jasper's past. When it was established, Jasper was a fur trading post. Also, in the center of town, there is a Haida totem pole to pay tribute to the Haida people who originally settled these northwest coast regions of North America. Thus, the shops sell lots of totem poles, masks, and other native items. We enjoyed dinner, and then made our way back to the hotel for the night.
The time had come to return back home to Calgary. We woke up early on Monday, June 30th to eat breakfast at the hotel and then fuel up and hit the road. It was a foggy morning, but cleared up a bit as we drove. Sun or clouds, the mountains are still a sight to see. We pulled off in Banff for a little picnic lunch and to stretch our legs, and then it was a long few hours back to Calgary. I think we were all done with being in the car, especially the kids. :) We made it, finally, and really did enjoy our adventures along the Icefields Parkway!
So beautiful! Since walking on a glacier is on my life list...we'll have to put this on our to do list for next year.
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